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Great hunting and very
friendly people. We felt genuinely comfortable with the company
of our guide Baagii. I would appreciate if I could hunt with
him again for my next hunt in 2008.
Richard Alvares, Montana |
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Over
the centuries the people of the steppe have developed
their own ethics of social conduct. Mongolians are known
to be a very hospitable nation. The hard conditions of
life, far from embittering them, gave rise to the long-standing
traditions of friendliness and hospitality. The host is
well aware that the wayfarer entering his ger is tired
and may still have a long way to go. Of course, he has
also found himself in similar situations more than once.
And so he does his best to anticipate and satisfy his
guest's wishes. The Mongols do not like to talk about
unpleasant things. It is believed that such talk may invoke
trouble. It is even more impermissible to say bad things
about friends and acquaintances. If at times something
unpleasant has to be said, people try to do it as tactfully
and inoffensively as possible. On the other hand, expressions
of good will and praise are widespread. Praise of their
mother country, the beauty of the natural scenery, the
hospitality of the host, etc., presents a special form
of folklore.
There are many types of greeting in the Mongolian language
that are used depending on the situation and the time.
The townsfolk usually say "Sain bainuu?" which
is equivalent to "How are you?" The expected
answer is "Sain", which means "Fine".
National ethics do not permit a negative answer. It is
only later in conversation that you may mention your problems
if you have any. Countrymen often salute each other with
the question
"Are you wintering well?" or "Are you spending
this spring in peace?" Needless to say, the greeting
should suit the season. Shepherds ask each other "Are
sheep grazing in peace?" or "Are your sheep
fattening well?" The word "peace" often
figures in greetings and good wishes. In the Mongolian
semantics it is equivalent to happiness. After all, when
a person has no worries, he is at peace and, consequently,
happy. In the village, the guest finding his host or hostess
at work expresses specific good wishes. For instance,
if the hostess is milking the cow, he says, "May
your bucket be brim full of milk." If she is beating
wool, he says, "May the wool be as soft as silk."
If the family are playing some game, his wish will be
that everyone should win if only once. The answer to good
wishes is always the same: "May it be as you say."
When you are talking to an elderly person whom you know
you are expected to add the respectful "guay"
to his name, for instance, Dorj-guay. Addressing a stranger
who is older than you, say "Akh-aa" which can
be translated as older brother or uncle.
Family Relations also have their ethics. We say for instance,
"My Wife" and the "Father of my children".
One always has to use the correct form of address depending
on the person's age or position. If in the cities a foreigner
may safely behave like elsewhere in the world, in the
countryside at every step he stumbles against all kinds
of customs and traditions that he violates without even
knowing it. Especially in the remote regions where traditions
and customs are stronger. True, people are not offended
if foreigners do something the wrong way because of their
ignorance. "The ignorant will not be punished",
the Mongols say. In Mongolia it is not accepted to knock
at the door of a ger or say, "Can I come in?"
The guest as he approaches the ger is supposed to shout
loudly, "Hold the dog!" ("Nokhoi Khori!"
in Mongolian) even if there is no dog, for what he actually
means is to let the host know that he is coming. The host
and hostess emerge from the ger wearing their hats and
buttoned-up dels. As for the hats, if in Europe men take
off their hats when greeting each other, in Mongolia the
rules of good behaviour demand that they wear their hats
in such cases. The host helps the guest dismount from
his horse and takes him into the ger.
To
begin with, the men exchange snuff bottles. Never mind
if you do not have one. You should accept the host's snuff
bottle, take some snuff and return it. The bottle should
never be returned with the lid tightly on. Then the hostess
begins to serve tea, often made in the guest's presence.
It is not acceptable to ask the guest outright where he
comes from and for what purpose. He should say this himself
at some point during the conversation or after asking
the traditional questions about the weather, the cattle,
etc. The hostess serves tea in a small bowl, holding it
with both hands stretched out towards the guest, or with
the right hand supporting the elbow with the left arm.
The guest is supposed to accept the cup in the same fashion.
It would be very proper to let down the sleeves for it
is considered extremely impolite to expose your wrists.
The Mongols have their own ideas about the hearth, the
ger and what is inside it, and the guest should take care
to respect the old taboos. It is forbidden, for example,
to pour water on the hearth or throw garbage into it,
to touch the fire with a knife, step over the hearth or
spill milk. Whistling in the ger or leaning against the
supports is considered an ill omen.
In summer the host will offer you koumiss (fermented mare's
milk) instead of tea. To establish friendly relations
it is customary to eat off a common plate and drink from
a common cup, notably koumiss. The host fills the cup
and hands it over to the guest. The latter drinks a little
and returns the cup to the host who refills the cup and
hands it over to another guest. The host drinks after
all his guests have drunk from the cup. Nobody will insist
on the faultless observance of all the customs and rules
but learning at least some before a visit to Mongolia
would please your hosts and allow you to get a real feel
of Mongolian culture.
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